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Category Archive for 'South America'

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Chaitén

Eruption – Destruction – Disturbance.  (Map this!)

“You haven’t heard about the eruption in Chaitén? The Carretera Austral is closed.” , said the man in Temuco. That was the first time we heard about Chaitén; with relief we found that the ferry was still running and we could still do the Carretera Austral.

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A classical interlude in Frutillar

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At the museum

Music concert – German influence – Ruth – When the US is good. (Map this!)

The guitar quintet is playing against the deep blue of Lake Llanquihue. And as notes from Vivaldi envelop us, the almost perfect, snow-covered cone of Volcán Osorno can be seen majestically framed by Volcán Puntiagudo to the left and Tronador to the right. A sailboat glides serenely by.

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Vignettes of Chiloé

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At church

Chiloé – Working for penguins – Heating water – Wooden churches – Tranquility. (Map this!)

I first heard of Chiloé in 2001, when we were in Chile briefly visiting the Torres del Paine National Park. The more I heard about it, the more intrigued I became; Chiloé: the island of wooden churches, of a mix of the native Mapuche traditions and that of immigrant germanic ones, of self imposed isolation (they oppose the building of a bridge linking Chiloé to the mainland), of fabulously fresh seafood. When our friend Vinay decided to visit us for a few days, we decided it would be nice to spend them in Chiloé.

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The Economist, A Chile Divided (2/2)

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Friendly Argentine Bikers.

The Argentine bikers talked just a little too loudly and laughed a little too easily. They were driving across Argentina, to the Pacific coast near Concepción and back to the Pampas where they were from. When they weren’t bombarding us with rapid fire questions about our expedition, they had us doubled over with laughter with their jokes. Our Chilean host smiled politely, but never participated in the raucous conversation. Its always the quiet ones you have to watch out for, because if you’re not careful you might learn something from them.

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Good beer!

Lock the door – Armed men – About a dairy – Gen. Pinochet – A friend from Europe

I always lock the door at night when I sleep. I feel vulnerable lying dormant, unaware of my surroundings, oblivious to the world. Bad shit happens at night, the robbers, thieves, and evil-doers take advantage of our sleepiness and our lessened ability to defend ourselves.

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