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John Steinbeck and Us

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Palacio Barolo

“Once a bum, always a bum”

Our Book Club from a former life is reading John Steinbeck’s “Travels with Charley“. We picked up a copy since we will be returning to normal life soon and hope to pick up the threads from where we left off. I do not know whether they chose this book on purpose or whether it is just a coincidence, but no book could be more appropriate to read at this time, to follow the beginning of a journey as we approach the end of ours. Our experiences are fresh in our minds, and it is interesting to compare them with another’s. All the quotes in this article are from “Travels with Charley”.

“I have found many Readers more interested in what I wear than what I think, more avid to know how I do it than in what I do”

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Carretera Austral

“There is so much more that I am interested in knowing about you”, said a family friend, Mrs. Shirole. I am going to skip physical descriptions, you can see what we look like from the photos. Instead I will describe our thoughts and feelings and hopes for this journey. We are not new to travel. A four month long honeymoon imposed on us by a dilatory INS led to a serendipitous discovery, that taking long periods of “time off” from the regular routine is do-able and very enjoyable. Those of you who know us know that when we decide to do something we will do it, and our life so far has been alternating experiences of working jobs and time spent traveling.

“I had not heard the speech of America, seen the grass and the trees and sewage, seen its hills and water, its color and quality of light”

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Confluence

Why do we travel? Curiosity about new and strange lands and a desire to see famous sights is, of course, a factor. But the driving argument for us is the opportunity to learn something new, the challenge of doing something different from the routine. Thus far our vacations have had some sort of challenge built into them, either physical or mental. And negotiating strange lands puts you at more of a disadvantage than your own, with the opportunity to learn things you would never have thought of. I felt that the few days of vacation that the jobs here offer was not enough, we had to travel for longer so that we could see life with new eyes. So we take long periods of time off, open to and hoping for the possibility of that exciting change that will make us …what? More insightful? Wiser?

“I wanted a three-quarter-ton pick-up truck, capable of going anywhere under possibly rigorous conditions, and on this truck I wanted a little house built like the cabin of a small boat.”

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Quixote

We debated at length about the type of motorized travel we wanted and settled for staying in hotels. For us the economies worked out better that way (this is very personal and differs from person to person depending on the amount of discomfort they are willing to put up with). I spent many hours agonizing and feeling guilty about this, until we discovered smaller, owner run hotels. These we found to be much more characterful, giving us a chance to listen to unique stories and participate in wholly different experiences. Hostels are not so good for “mixing with the natives”, although they are wonderful for meeting up with other travelers, and I suspect campsites are the same experience in most countries. Once we opened our eyes to this possibility, listening to and understanding local life experiences became much more interesting than seeing some of the most celebrated sites.

“Two or more people disturb the ecologic complex of an area”.

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Roadside cross

People travel differently. the most common is single, couples or in groups. We have found that it is difficult to interact with other travelers or locals if you are in a group, almost impossible in an organized tour. Even a few friends traveling will deter any outreach of friendship from strangers. I prefer to have at least one other person though, someone to mull over and discuss new experiences, to find angles and viewpoints not immediately obvious to me.”

“I took far too many things, but I didn’t know what I would find”.

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Campeche

Traveling in a car allows you to take a load of stuff. In addition to clothes, we took camping and backpacking gear, fluids and spares for the car, recovery gear in case we got stuck, books and finally, a load of electronic gear. Some people can travel light, some can’t. We fit in the latter category, we like to have the appropriate tools to indulge our interests. Travel for us is not a way to isolate ourselves from our non-traveling life, but to share new experiences with it.

“In long-range planning for a trip, there is a private conviction that it won’t happen”.

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Mile 0

The trip took a lot of preparation, from learning about cars, medicine and a new language. We were complete novices at all of these, and we attacked each one of them with varying degrees of enjoyment (learning Spanish was by far the easiest and the most interesting) but with the same degree of determination to finish. I never had any serious doubts that the trip would happen. Maybe the reason was that we had planned for and desired this trip for so long that canceling it was not an option.

“There’s a gentility on the road. A direct or personal question is out of bounds”.

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Mocona

We learnt an important thing from the talkative and friendly Argentinians. This was that people love to talk, especially to strangers. Maybe foreigners are perceived as non threatening, maybe it is the fact that visitors are in a country only temporarily, or maybe they are perceived to be less judgmental, free from local customs and politics. We found that a few curious moments could lead to very interesting discussions, and could made our travels richer.

“Many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”.

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Inuvik

We have learnt a lot on this trip. We were able to indulge in our photographic hobbies, learn to make videos, study ancient cultures and see natural wonders. But the big change this trip has wrought in us is to scratch beneath the surface, to ask questions and dig deeper. I fervently hope that this change remains with us, giving us a new perspective on life and events, making our lives that much fuller.

Paean of Buenos Aires

Pasco y Moreno

Esq. Pasco y Moreno

The sound of English is loathsome. The syllables of the guttural tongue scratch my eardrums like cat claws. New York City is surprisingly clean and mature leafy trees shade the small streets of the Upper East Side which are filled with rich young mothers out for a stroll with their babies and handsome spouses. The ghost of the old New York with its pimps, hookers, loiterers, and young toughs has been exorcised completely. It is a delightfully safe place, free of those annoying attributes that give a place character.

Apartment in Buenos Aires

Our apartment

Buenos Aires is loud and dirty. Grand old buildings, refugees from another era, wait patiently when their time will come again. And it will come, because it would be an unthinkable tragedy otherwise. Our building was modest, covered with graffiti, and had enough people who cared about it to keep decay at bay. The ground floor apartment housed a Peronist, who at times could be seen in unholy communion with the other Peronist from the 2nd floor. The parilla-with-no-name at the corner of Pasco and Moreno was where we ate perfectly cooked Argentine steaks along with house painters with spattered clothing. A few steps away was the Libonati’s neatly ordered wine shop where each purchase came with a healthy dose of conversation.

The new New York is a little alienating to me, as I am a creature of the old New York. Not having seen its evolution firsthand, the changes are rather disconcerting. I had a chance to speak to one of the urban planners responsible for the transformation. “I find the changes in Times Square grotesque. I would rather have the old one back with its hookers and drug dealers”, I said. She agreed that her department was unhappy with the way the whole project turned out. “We wanted the porn shops and drug dealers out, but we are disappointed with the results.”, she told me.

Umbrellas, Buenos Aires

On the sidewalk

In Buenos Aires you always have to be careful not to step in dog shit, which, despite pooper scooper laws dots the sidewalks like miniature biological IEDs. Service in the cafes is slow, forcing you to take in the faded grandeur around you, and life is measured out in coffee spoons and long aimless conversation. For the past eighteen months I have been a creature of the road, covered with grime and dressed in faded clothes. In Buenos Aires I fit in perfectly, but is there room in the US for such as I? In the bright lights of the malls and the mountains of produce at CostCo I feel very small, unneeded and lost.

A Divine Comedy

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At MALBA

The Divine Comedy and the Story of a Merchant’s Dream.
(Map this!)

Nel mezzo del camin di nostra vita
mi ritrovai per una selva scura,
chè la dritta via era smarrita
.

- Dante Alighieri, “L’Inferno”

 

With these famous lines we enter hell. Or rather, the first (ground) floor of Palacio Barolo, the product of a fantastic dream of a rich textile merchant of twentieth century Argentina, Luis Barolo. Thinking that Europe would be destroyed by incessant wars, he built a mausoleum for Dante Alighieri’s ashes (which, unsurprisingly enough, the Italians never released) in a magnificent edifice with architecture suffused with the Divine Comedy.

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The view from the top of Palacio Barolo facing the Congress

 


To view the 38.16 megapixel panorama click here.


 

We zoomed up hell and purgatory relatively easily - but reaching heaven was hard work. The ancient elevator could not carry everyone in our little group, so some of us had to schlep the last few floors up a one-person-wide stairway. Inexplicably, the once-tallest building in South America is topped by a lighthouse lamp, housed in a glass dome. Precariously perched on the metal railing, we took in the panoramic view of the “Congresso” district of Buenos Aires - the wedding cake Congress building, the expansive plaza which is a magnet for the homeless, the sidewalk cafes as well as the colorfully painted bus of unknown purpose that seems to be a permanent fixture of the landscape…

Traveling forever

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At Palacio Barolo

Southern South America - Terminus - Long term Travel - The Travelers - The Nature of Long Term Travel - Going Home

At its Southern tip South America looks like an inverted cone, squeezing all travelers into a limited area. Thus, it seemed to us that the continent was suddenly full of overlanders from Europe, America and Australia. In contrast to the rest of our journey, we were greeting at least one expedition vehicle a day.

Buenos Aires seems to be another such meeting point. People are either starting or finishing off their grand adventure. As a terminus for such travelers, we have started to run into people that were, until recently, just names on a web site or an email. This is how we finally met Karin-Marijke and Coen, veteran wanderers of the world for the past six years.

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The southern tip of South America
looks like an inverted funnel

People choose many ways of long term travel. The most common are the backpackers, who, having taken time often off for about a year, rely on public transport to satisfy their wanderlust. Then, much fewer, are mobile travelers with expedition vehicles frequently fitted out to be a home away from home. Almost everyone has an end date in mind, people return for friends, family, work. But there are those who have made a lifestyle of traveling, their home is on the road, their holiday is visiting the place where home used to be.

“Strange”,”Weird”, you say? But when you meet permanent travelers like Karin-Marijke and Coen (Amsterdam) or Rick and Cathy (US), they come across as the sweetest, least eccentric people you could imagine. Yet it is not easy to be continuously on the road, dealing with strange cultures, unfamiliar languages and unknown surroundings. The friendly grocer changes frequently, you have no idea where to get a duct tape, or even what it is called for that matter, and how much money the next bank will give you. The comfort of the familiar is never an option, only the challenging unknown remains.

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Karen-Marijke and Coen

Yet even the unfamiliar becomes routine, and it has to be said, even the most frustrating day traveling is no worse than a bad day at work. It is comforting to know that most timelines are self imposed and can be changed. Likewise, some things are so hard to change that resignation is the best policy.

As the end of our trip approaches, we ask ourselves, could we travel like the veterans? No clear answer comes to mind. Nine months ago I would have said no, I miss our friends and the comfort of a daily routine too much. While this remains important to us, we have been away for so long that I wonder if staying in one place would make me restless. I guess I will find out soon enough.

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Contemplating Koi

To a certain extent this post assumes familiarity with the Borges’ short story “Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius”, which you can find here.

The freeways around Buenos Aires form a vast labyrinth with snaking asphalt paths. “Take that exit. No that one, THAT exit!” “Fuck! We almost got creamed by that bus, you’re going to get us killed!” “Shit! Is this where we’re supposed to be?” “We’re lost. Where the fuck are we going?” “I don’t know. According to the GPS we’re right where we’re supposed to be.” “Okay, we’re on Pasco. And there’s Moreno.” “Here it is. WTF. Where are we?

I owe the discovery of Uqbar to the concurrence of a mirror and an encyclopaedia.
-Jorge Luis Borges, Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius

GPS: Fail. We were to meet Luis Alvarez at Pasco 261, cross street Moreno. That is exactly where we were, but it looked like a rough neighborhood with low-slung buildings. As it happens in Argentina, we were immediately surrounded by friendly and helpful people, who after their initial empuzzlement on finding us in Ramos Mejía, soon pointed us in the right direction. Several days later Luis called to say: “I was just reviewing Borges’ ‘Tlön, Uqbar, Orbis Tertius’, and did you know that the mirror that led to the discovery of Uqbar was located in Ramos Mejía?” Sometimes the universe conspires to show us strange things - this time it had led us to the starting point for my favorite short story.

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Zodiaco - 1953, Xul Solar.

The story is rooted in the philosophy of George Berkeley, that objects are known by our perception of them. In fact Berkeley goes so far to say that that is the only way we know objects, so if our perception of the object changes, it changes the object itself. So that “cute colorful wiggly thing” drastically changes to “Oh shit, snake!” when it chews on your tent mate and leaves him writhing with agony. Borges cleverly keeps introducing unusual objects and concepts until Tlön is set to overwhelm Earth by displacing all perceptions about it.

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